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Brake Master Cylinder for Case IH 46 & 55 Series Tractors

Original price was: $169.20.Current price is: $85.67.

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SKU: QTP-400027 Category:

When your brake pedal starts feeling spongy or you find yourself pumping it twice just to get decent stopping power, you’re not dealing with a minor inconvenience—you’re looking at a safety issue that needs fixing right now. This brake master cylinder restores that firm, confident brake feel you depend on whether you’re hauling grain carts down county roads or working steep hillsides with heavy implements.

Key Features

  • Direct replacement for Case IH 46 and 55 series tractors with no modifications needed
  • Precision-machined cylinder bore ensures consistent hydraulic pressure and smooth operation
  • Heavy-duty seals designed to withstand the temperature extremes and pressure cycles of farm work
  • Compatible with DOT brake fluid systems for reliable, long-lasting performance
  • Built to handle the demanding conditions these versatile tractors see daily

Built for Real Farm Work

Your Case IH 46 or 55 series tractor handles serious workloads, from loader operations and cultivation to road transport with heavy equipment. These utility and row-crop machines were built when farming meant heavy loads and long days, and reliable brakes aren’t optional when you’re navigating farm lanes with loaded implements or working rolling terrain.

Made to Last

Farm tractors put brake components through punishment that road vehicles never see. This master cylinder features robust construction that handles the constant vibration, temperature swings, and heavy use your tractor dishes out. The precision-bored cylinder maintains consistent pressure distribution, preventing that dangerous pull to one side that worn cylinders can cause.

Installation Notes

This master cylinder mounts in the original location using existing brake lines. Before installation, make sure you have fresh brake fluid on hand—it’s the perfect time to flush the system. Bench bleed the new cylinder before mounting to remove air, and always start bleeding from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder once everything’s connected.